August 12, 2010
Gimme Shelter – On Location in Shelter Island
I was in an accident last summer that left me in a wheelchair for nearly three months. Once I was up and on my feet, I was determined to get active again. I had heard about a 10-mile hike taking place on Shelter Island at the Mashomack Preserve. Hiking had always been one of my favorite pastimes because it clears my mind and the nature aspect of it keeps me grounded. I knew that the Preserve had over 2,000 acres with miles of sandy coastline, and figured that this was a great way to break out of my wheelchair state of mind. Before I lost my nerve, I signed up. And I went.
Taking a ferry is the only way to get onto Shelter Island, and I had no problem getting a spot on the South Ferry (just outside of Sag Harbor). Once on Shelter Island, you can take the North Ferry across to Greenport (and back) if you want to do a little exploring on the North Fork (or vice versa if you’ve started up there). The ferry lines can be time-consuming at peak times though so plan your visit accordingly. After the ferry arrived at Shelter Island, I soon saw the entrance to the Mashomack Preserve.
Fun Fact: The Mashomack Preserve is owned by The Nature Conservancy and protects one of the most dense populations of breeding ospreys on the East Coast.
I parked at the Preserve’s Visitor Center, and soon our group was assembled and ready to go. We hiked around curves, up hills, and through trails that opened to vistas of breathtaking meadows, with its natural grasses swaying gently in the breeze, and a view of the water beyond. Sometimes the trails were completely flooded so we made our way, painstakingly, through briar patches. We waded through water. We talked as we trekked along, and got to know each other. Four hours later (yes, four hours), we were back at the Preserve’s Visitor Center, feeling refreshed and exhausted at the same time. Having hiked 10 miles felt like a personal triumph after being wheelchair-bound, and this accomplishment was a great way to face—and embrace—the future. It might not seem like a big undertaking to many people, but that day gave me back my confidence.
Another thing I wanted to do while on the Island was visit the camp that houses the Perlman Music Program. I was surprised to see that the camp looked like it was straight out of the movie, The Parent Trap. Rustic cabins…not exactly the setting I had envisioned for the world-renowned violinist Itzhak Perlman. It was refreshing to see that this wholesome place was the environment for children who come from around the world to attend this program, instead of them being housed in a fancy hotel somewhere with a private doorman and room service. I felt inspired when I learned that Mr. Perlman stays on campus full time during the summer session, eats with the students, gives them private lessons each week, and participates in their activities. They give a few performances every summer so check their calendar.
Fun Fact: This year marked the 16th anniversary of the program; it served 37 musicians ages 11-18, and no student is ever turned away because of inability to pay!
After hiking at Mashomack and exploring the Perlman camp, I had worked up an appetite, so I had dinner next door at the Pridwin Hotel. Walking into their main room I got the feeling that I could easily spend a month at this gracious hotel overlooking the water. The service and food were both fantastic and there is a weekly cookout on the lawn every Wednesday evening during the summer. Feel free to arrive by water and tie up at Pridwin’s private dock…very East End.
Other popular places to check out include the Chequit Inn, the beautiful, large Victorian on Grand Avenue, which has been a staple on Shelter Island for years. Built in 1872, this inn offers a lively restaurant with an extensive wine list, and is just a short walk to the downtown area. Another is The Ram’s Head Inn. It has a very private location but once found, it exudes an elegance of yesteryear and many a wedding has been performed on the premises. Ram’s Head offers top-notch dining (year-round) and hosts events such as live jazz, wine dinners, and more. A great place to go for breakfast and lunch is Pat & Steve’s, with comfort food as well as great seafood dishes (and the creamiest cole slaw to be found on the East End). Planet Bliss is owned by very hospitable hosts Julie and Sebastian Bliss. Julie turned this two-story house into an inviting haven with a tropical feel and Caribbean music, while Sebastian wows the crowd with his delicious culturally diverse menu.
Another local favorite, The Dory, is one of the Island’s most popular restaurants which doubles as a nightclub with live bands during the summer weekends. Rumor has it that Nat King Cole’s brother even plays here at least once every summer. Bold-faced names seem to find their way here to enjoy a bit of down-home flavor.
Of course, no visit to Shelter Island would be complete without spending some time on the beach and having a drink or two at Sunset Beach, the party place of the Island. I stopped by and realized that I could also spend a considerable amount of time here too, with its French food and tropical feel. The New York Times says, “Sunset Beach. The name says it all. It’s what summer and Shelter Island are all about.”
I have decided that the next time I want to take a vacation I have to go no further than beautiful Shelter Island, the “island sheltered by islands.” As one resident put it, “We are the un-Hamptons,” and I believe that is a good way to put it. No traffic or noise, lots of nature, some high-end culture, fresh seafood, a summery outdoor cookout, and plenty of places with a laid-back Caribbean vibe…what else could one want, and so close to home?
